Jun 8, 2025 – Ready for the Rock

“You’re all set for the rock”. That’s what the campground host at Arm of Gold Campground told me after topping off our propane tank. “You’re going to need it where you’re going”, he says as he drove off with his golf cart. He left me standing in the damp cool air of Cape Breton, thinking about those 30ish temps and wondering how long that propane will last us.

Before we arrived in northern Nova Scotia, we had to get through New Brunswick which is where we crossed the border from Maine. Frankly, we expected a bit more interrogation this time around, compared to the previous two years we have crossed into Canada given the current state of affairs between our countries. As it were, a couple trainees were able to use our Casita trailer and truck for training. Why us? I guess we walked into it when we admitted having a large bottle of vodka and a box of wine, as well as bear spray.

Training ensued as the pair methodically scoured our belongings tip to tip. Yet, they were unable to find the bear spray. Which goes to show you that despite its small size, the Casita is a perfect transporter if you want to hide something – just sayin’.

After helping them find the bear spray, which they had to verify was the real thing, we were given the results of our shake down – “We won’t confiscate your alcohol or fine you, but we have to incur a forced payment of duty and taxes, but only on the extra 20 oz of vodka you’re bringing in”. 15 minutes later, I was handed a bill coming to about $47 American. I still think Canadians are the nicest. Moving on.

Our first two nights in Canada were spent in a somewhat familiar location, St Martin, a small fishing village we had visited last year while staying in Fundy National Park. What I remembered most was Octopus Ice Cream, probably the best waffle cones (homemade) ever tasted. We had to go back there – not to mention the popular Spinney’s seafood restaurant for a bit of lobster.

St Martin (or what is now called Fundy-St Martin) is a charming and out-of- the-way town of about 300 year round residents. We met several of them, mostly artist or kayaker types. So our impression of St Martin is 100% positive and when we inquired with our campground owner about seasonal rates which amounted to no more than $1200 American (about 4 months worth), we had visions of driving our fifth wheel up there and spending the entire summer on the Bay of Fundy.

After two nights in the Fundy air that oscillates about 10 degrees with the tides and winds, we continued to Nova Scotia where we spent a night in another small town, Antigonish.

I thought St Martin was old, but Antigonish goes back further; I learned this when the Whidden Park campground manager informed me the campground is family-owned on family property that goes back as far as 300 years. That’s impressive, especially given the previous campground, Century Farm Family in St Martin claims the family property for 200 years.

And that’s what I love about this part of Canada, the history is long and rich. Antigonish goes all the way back to Scotland, where most of its settlers came from. Of course the church has played a significant role in the community, evident as St Francis Xavier University campus comprises much of the downtown area.

With only 120 miles remaining, we took our time leaving Antigonish so I could have a nice early morning walk around the town and university campus. This is something I enjoy doing so much while staying in campgrounds located within a rural municipality. These opportunities are hallmarks for mine and Vivian’s RV travels – getting a glimpse of rural America and Canada that we would otherwise ignore.

At last, we can relax… we have arrived at the Arm of Gold or Bras D’Or – the gateway to Newfoundland. Having only opened last week for the season and conveniently located 5 miles from the ferry terminal, The Arm of Gold campground was filling fast with RV travelers going to or coming from the rock. Everything we have been planning has led us to this point.

Meanwhile, we have an extra day at Arm of Gold before crossing as a very large swath of bad weather passed over us and Newfoundland. Glad we were here instead of on the ferry!

Soon, we will board our truck and Casita trailer for the 7-hr ride across the Gulf of St Lawrence. Stayed tuned!

For those interested in a route to Newfoundland, here’s some information about getting from Maine to the ferry terminal in North Sydney, Nova Scotia and a few other pieces of information to help you plan a trip to the rock.

Here are a few tips for planning a trip to Newfoundland and Labrador.

First, book your ferry reservation well ahead of time, it fills fast. There are 2 routes to Newfoundland from North Sydney. Many people choose to get there on one and return on the other as the two locations accommodate a tour of the entire island (enter on the west side, leave on the east side, or vice versa).

Second, Newfoundland is huge, and although I planned a tour of a large portion of the island (including a couple days in Labrador) spanning 24 days, it is not enough time to see the entire island.

Third, speaking of booking early, there are two national parks in Newfoundland and if you want to camp within a national park campground, book early.

And last, brush up on your Newfinese! Yes, b’y!