Aug 3, 2023 – Jasper National Park Part 1 – The icefields

You might think leaving Banff National Park would not be easy, but the fact we would drive north on Highway 93 toward Jasper National Park made it so. If Banff was a preview, Jasper was the show. Our drive was approximately 180 miles to our campground in Jasper National Park, 140 miles of which is the Icefields Parkway, considered one of the most beautiful drives in the world.

With two large rigs and trucks, we were limited in locations for pulling off and taking in the views. But there were still plenty of spaces.

Lorraine and Spencer followed us as we towed our fifth wheels along the Parkway. We had high hopes that there would be several pull-off opportunities along the way, but with our two relatively large trucks and tow behinds, we knew our limits and certain popular stops would be inaccessible. Fortunately, most of them were short distances from our Jasper campground and with 12 days to explore, we came back to the Icefields Parkway several times.

We stopped at the RV parking lot at the Columbia Icefields visitor center on the way to Jasper and again on the way back south. This was our smoke-filled view of the glaciers on our way to Jasper. You can barely make out Athabasca Glacier.
Fortunately, we stopped here again on our way south to enjoy this view. That’s Athabasca Glacier on the right.

Along the Parkway is the Columbia Icefields where ‘Tongues of Ice’, including roadside attractions like Athabasca Glacier move through the mountain valleys. At about 80 square miles, the Columbia Icefield is the largest mass of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies that feeds several large glaciers including the Athabasca. Glaciers form where more snow falls in the winter than melts in summer. Over time the snow gets thicker and heavier and slowly moves downhill. But as the planet warms, the reverse occurs as these glaciers gradually become remnants of themselves.

Here we are parked at the Columbia Icefields on a smoky day, although the sky was less smoky facing east.
On the way south, we stopped at the parking lot again.

The Columbia Icefield has an impressive role to play as a hydrological apex (Snow Dome) of the Continental Divide. This is where a drop of meltwater begins its journey to one of three oceans. If a water droplet manages to roll down the west side, it enters the Columbia River and eventually the Pacific Ocean. From the east side water rolls down to the North Saskatchewan and Athabasca Rivers and eventually to the Atlantic and Artic Oceans, respectively.

We drove past the infamous Columbia Icefield Skywalk, seen here on our way to Jasper. People reserve months in advance and pay a high price to get on the skywalk which allows you full view underfoot. Too bad for these people it was a very smoky day.
On our way back south, these people got a much better deal!

The rocks themselves have another great (and incomprehensible to most) story to tell with three distinct chapters. Beginning with an ancient sea that spread over the land, sand, silt, and gravel deposited over time in the shallow waters that covered an area now occupied by snow-capped mountains. The accumulation of sediment eventually filled the sea while at the same time, the earth sank in that area. Over millions of years, layer upon layer of sediment built up and hardened into solid rock. Chapter two began when a disturbance in the shallow depression occurred as the earth’s crust became more unstable. Over time, the sediment layers lifted up and broke in many places (faults) while compressive forces caused blankets of rock to fold, buckle and break such that one part slid up over another part. It is unimaginable what was going on beneath the surface to make all that happen. But thankfully, it happened!

The Columbia Glacier as seen from the RV parking lot.

Some of the Rocky Mountain’s history is contained within Jasper National Park, spreading over 130 miles along the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains from the Continental Divide and then eastward to the foothills. With 4,200 square miles, Jasper is one of the largest national parks in the world, and one of the most beautiful. Containing land drained by Athabasca River and its tributaries it holds many grand waterfalls and gorges. And this is where chapter three of the Canadian Rockies comes in, which describes how the most spectacular displays of water movement on the planet came about. I’ll leave that for the next blog. Meanwhile enjoy this slideshow of views along the Icefields Parkway.

In addition to the views from Icefields Parkway, we came to another glacier located on Mt Edith Cavell. How doe one get a mountain named after them? During WWI, Edith Cavell was a British nurse that helped British and French soldiers escape German-occupied Belgium and into Britain, against German military law. She was imprisoned and later executed in Germany. Following her death, she became an iconic figure, mostly from propaganda for military recruitment in Britain and was popularized because of her apparent heroic approach to death. Regardless of the name’s origin, Mt Edith Cavell and Angel Glacier topped our visit to Jasper National Park, see for yourself.

RV TIP. One thing we like to do is keep our RV cleaned and waxed on the outside. We discovered Wash Wax All works well for us, especially when we are on the road and cannot use water to wash the RV (most campgrounds do not allow it!). So with some cloths and a long handle to reach the high parts, we can wash the road grime from our RV without water, helping to protect and extend its life.

Check out these previous blogs about our visit to Canada:

Banff National Park

Tunnel Mountain Trailer Court and the town of Banff

Getting to Canada the long way

2 thoughts on “Aug 3, 2023 – Jasper National Park Part 1 – The icefields

  1. Such a great time! Of course, you forgot to mention the number of times we said “C-onnnie!!” (a la: Seinfeld’s “Newman!!”) 🙂

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