Every state has its share of idiosyncratic attractions; some historically meaningful and others are just idiosyncratic – such as roadside art with no context. Seems quirky art installations are not all that uncommon across the open prairies and some of them have been installed along highways for the sole purpose of entertaining travelers passing through.
The best part of these attractions are the unique stories that come with them. Take for example, this one. Over fifty years ago in a small town of about 200 people somewhere in South Dakota, an inspired young boy created his first sculpture in his father’s blacksmith shop. Only 10 years old, he used a cutting torch to carve a small bull’s head from iron and drilled holes in it so he could wear it as a necklace. At the age of twelve, his father taught him how to weld which inspired the boy to create larger sculptures from metal scraps. After high school graduation, the young sculptor left home, earned a college degree (in political science and history, not art) and dropped out of law school. At which time, he returned to his hometown and became a vegetarian sheep farmer. In his spare time, he indulged in his art which evolved very large metal sculptures. Meet Wayne Porter, the sole creator of an unusual and intriguing roadside attraction, Porter Sculpture Park located next to I-90 about 30 miles west of Sioux Falls.
What intrigues me the most about art and makes me want to go see it is the variety of reactions it elicits from people. And if ever there was a venue for roadside art critics, it is Trip Advisor. Behold what the traveling art critics from around the world are saying about Wayne’s sculptures:
- “Absolutely stunning large sculptures”
- “Artwork ranging from the whimsical to the surreal”
- “Definite sci-fi influence to the artist’s designs, but imaginative, creative, clever and quite good”
- “I think it’s just some guy whose artistic impulse was uncontrollable”
- “Quirky and fun, dark and introspective”
- “It is nothing but a bunch of creepy statues on side of road”
- “Some of the sculptures are very blatantly satanic and can creep out anyone even in broad daylight”
Wayne’s artistic vision is BIG, as in 60-ft tall metal sculpture big. At the beginning, he put his large art on display in his tiny hometown because there was no other place to put it. It was not well received – maybe not so much for their size, but because the sculptures appear to be inspired by cartoon fantasies with a dark surrealistic edge to them. Not everyone’s cup of tea. The town’s reaction to Wayne’s art most likely was more than lukewarm, it probably came with a certain amount of hysteria as Wayne has been quoted to say “You haven’t lived ‘til you’ve been called a satanic pornographer.” As a result, in 2000 Wayne moved his large sculptures to a family-owned large piece of cattle-grazing land. He gave up his sheep and devoted all his time to Porter Sculpture Park. Art critics now come in cars and RVs between Memorial Day and Labor Day to visit Wayne and his art.
As I pulled into the parking area (nothing more than a gravel lot with a rundown trailer on one end and a large shed on the other), I noticed a gentleman working in the shed. When the park is open, Wayne lives on the premises with his dog Bambino. I was the only visitor there (this did not last long), except for Wayne’s friend who were spending the night in a tent.
What makes Porter Sculpture Park special is that you get to meet the artist. In fact, you are obliged to meet him when he comes out of the shed to greet you and collect his admission fee. After that, you can spend as much time and take as many pictures as you like. You can also partake in a lively conversation with Wayne who loves to share his stories and insights and sprinkle them with his quirky sense of humor. For about an hour and a half, I walked around the field of art taking photographs, reading the poetry and watching the nesting meadowlarks guard their nest built inside a blue dragon’s mouth. I also spent about an hour talking with Wayne and his fellow artist friend. One impression I came away with is Wayne’s love for the prairie where his art has become a part of its landscape.
And he is beholden to no one, he creates whatever he wants. He built a 7-ton, 40-ft tall metal horse. But, what gets the attention of people passing by is the 60-ft tall bullhead weighing in at 25 tons. No engineers were involved with the development or installation of these pieces, just a group of friends and family. Because of the location of his park, Wayne has the unusual privilege of meeting thousands of people every year because they stop in to view his art. Funny thing, this South Dakotan has never been as far as the Black Hills or Badlands National Park. Yet you get the sense from talking to him that he has the best reason not to – the world comes to him. And there is nothing he enjoys more than sharing his whimsical creations with all that come to view them and if you ask, he will share his thoughtful yet whimsical philosophies on life and art.
Vivian and I parked the RV in a lovely campground in the middle of a corn field about 12 miles from Porter Sculpture Park. With one night only, I unhitched the truck from the RV and set out to visit the park. Glad I did, because I got to spend a couple hours wandering around Wayne’s sculpture dreamscape in the prairie and talk with him about art, current events, South Dakota and cows. A conversation with Wayne is almost like walking through his Sculpture Park – almost every sentence, like every sculpture entertains you with his beguiling imagination and sense of humor. You never know what will pop up. I talked to him about my enchantment with the prairie and desire to photograph it. He looked over at his cow pasture and recommended I should try to photograph cows. “Thanks Wayne, I think I will”.
The next morning, we hitched up and continued west on the flat I-90 to Badlands National Park. Geographically, South Dakota is split in two by the Missouri River that runs north to south. The difference between the west and east portions of the state go further than a time zone, upon crossing the river we enter country that contains several national parks and monuments, and Native American sacred land. Before that, we had one more piece of art to visit on the east side of the river.
Dignity of Earth and Sky is a 50-ft tall and 12-ton statue installed at the Chamberlain Interstate-90 Welcome Center overlooking the Missouri River. Compared to Wayne Porter’s bullhead, it is mediocre in size. Dignity is the creation of South Dakota’s artist laureate Dale Claude Lamphere. During its 2-yr construction, Lamphere called upon three Native American women ages 14, 29 and 55 to serve as models and perfect the face of Dignity that was designed to honor the cultures of the Lakota and Dakota people. During the building of Dignity, Lamphere had a group of expert metal fabricators working with him. In fact, he consulted with structural engineers, cultural advisors, material suppliers and electrical contractors to create his art. How did all this come to be? To celebrate South Dakota’s 125th anniversary into statehood, Norm and Eunabel McKie of Rapid City gifted the $1 million statue to all the people of South Dakota in 2014.
And if you want to know, here are what the roadside art critics are saying on Trip Advisor:
- “The statue is amazing”
- “The statue is huge and quite stunning”
- “It is truly impressive and beautiful”
- “A wonderful statue in a wonderful setting”
- “She is beautiful”
- “Magnificent can’t even describe how beautiful the sculpture is”
- “The sculpture is superbly done”
Art comes in all forms. It may be inspired by “horses living in my head” or to “serve as a symbol of respect and promise for the future.” From wherever the inspiration comes, what makes it art is the artist. And somewhere along South Dakota’s highway is an artist’s gift to you, by way of a generous donor or a father’s blacksmith shop. On your journey, take the time and experience it. And if you are fortunate enough, you’ll get to meet the artist.
As we continue our travels toward the Badlands and the Black Hills, I’d like to leave you with these thoughts, written by Susan Claussen Bunger, Instructor of Native American social systems.
“As is evident through history, humans will ultimately disillusion and betray. As is such, I have a new role model who is solid and sturdy. She literally owns a spine of steel and reminds me of the injustice in the world, but also the strength, perseverance and survival. She signifies people who have prevailed through the centuries. She represents all who resist and strive forward. She portrays a rallying cry for those who wish to be heard and valued. She stands strong and proud, meeting the morning sun and bracing against the nighttime cold. She contemplates the world through a poise of conviction and fearlessness. Her name is “Dignity”.