Fog over the Bay of Fundy adds to the beauty of it, whereas fog over Cape Breton completely devours it. That’s what we learned after arriving at the Cheticamp Campground within Cape Breton Highlands National Park. During the first four days there, every attempt we made to drive the “world famous” Cabot Trail that offers spectacular views of the coastline was stopped by zero-visibility fog. But we were not deterred – we had seven more days on the cape and surely the fog would clear out to give us a chance to experience Cape Breton’s coastline, including the famous Skyline Trail.
Meanwhile, after learning that the consistent winds on the Cape are not conducive for safe use of bear spray – meaning you are more likely to spray yourself than a bear, I went for a typical solo walk in the woods without it. The last thing I expected was a momma bear and cub. Before I continue my bear story, let me back up a minute. Since last year, we have traveled through Canada with our friends Spencer and Lorraine, who also live fulltime in their RV. Last year it was the Canadian Rockies via five national parks, this year it was the Canadian Maritimes including three national parks. Given that bear and moose sightings (from a safe distance of course) are highly valued experiences in a Canadian national park, it became a game between us and our friends as to who would see a bear or moose first, or who would see the most bear or moose (or any wildlife for that matter).
Earlier, I had gone out for a walk at sunrise to a pond where I spotted a beaver. I took a photo and promptly sent my ‘catch of the day’ to Lorraine and Spencer so that I could once again extol the virtues of getting out early. A couple hours later, I received a gloating text from them with a photo of a black bear that they had spotted near the campground. Bear trumps beaver, haha!
Back to my bear story. Only a ½ mile from the trailhead, I decided to return to the RV. Attempting to send Vivian a text, I realized I had no signal and that’s when I looked up from my phone to see a large black bear about 25 feet away turn toward me and charge. Within a second, I noticed a rustling in the woods and surmised it was a fleeing cub (or two), that I was being charged by a female bear protecting her cub, that said animal was quite real with big teeth and an unforgettable growl, and that the stupidest thing I could do was run the other way.
I stood calmly and made no sudden moves and began to back away slowly. As it were, she bluffed a charge, but nevertheless, she came within 10 feet of me. Bluff or no bluff, that’s scary sh**. My heart racing, I continued walking backwards, watching her meander back to where I first saw her. That’s when I had the mind to take a photo and as soon as I got back to the campground, I promptly sent it to Lorraine and Spencer. Bear siting, indeed!
The bear encounter stands out, but Cape Breton was much more than that. Of course, one of the highlights for those visiting the national park is to drive the Cabot Trail and hike the Skyline Trail. While the morning fog initially thwarted our plans to walk the Skyline Trail before the crowds, we found many other things to occupy our time. Like visiting the village of Cheticamp, gateway to the national park. Here we discovered the history of this Acadian region where the Cheticamp Rug Hooking Frame originated. From the use of the frame, many women in Cheticamp created small businesses in their homes, selling hooked rugs to tourists. This tradition lives on at the Trois Pignons Museum in Cheticamp, well worth an hour or two of your time.
We also took a boat ride to watch whales. Excited to see whales, we were somewhat disappointed that they were minke whales, the smallest of the great whales and not much bigger than the dolphins we see in the Gulf of Mexico. But they were whales and we got to watch them! That and seeing the Cape’s shoreline from the water was worth it especially given the rarity of a calm, fogless and beautiful afternoon.
In addition to Cheticamp, we visited other villages on the Cape, including Mabou where we enjoyed a seafood meal and live traditional music at the Red Shoe Pub.
We took many hikes within the national park through highland forests and bogs.
A view from the Salmon Pool Trail, near Cheticamp Campground 
Evidence of moose where they scrap the bark with their teeth. 
Remains of the Le Buttereau community on French Mountain overlooking the coast. 
Four families comprised Le Buttereau, including this one that had one child more than each of the other three – a total of 41 children! 
The fog didn’t keep us away from the Bog loop trail. 
Rain, fog and snow account for all the wetness in a highland bog. 
Pitcher Plant Flowers in the bog are abundant. 
Wished I had identified this one. 
They’re kind of cute in their own way. 
Common garter snake
Ten days gave us time to explore the coastline along the Cabot Trail, fog or no fog.
And yes, we finally got to the Skyline Trail one early morning before the peak crowds and as the fog rolled in and out.
Stay tuned as we continue our travels through Nova Scotia. Check out our previous blogs about
Changing Views From Our RV 
That must have been a very scary bear encounter but you handled it with a cool head and dry pants. I doff my cap to you!
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