Aug 14, 2023 – Jasper National Park Part 3 – The Animals

Photo credit goes to our friend Lorraine Saints. This elk calf is looking through a window of the washroom facilities at our campground in Jasper National Park.

While in Banff and Jasper National Parks, we learned to say ‘Hey bear’ in French. After all, national park signage includes both English and French wording. We added the Spanish version as well because we wanted to make sure a lurking bear could understand us. Learning the Chinese version of “Hey bear” might also have been helpful given the number of Chinese tourists in Banff and Jasper.  – “Hey bear”, “Hey ours noir“, “Hey oso negro”. Speaking loud and repetitively, we hiked through the montane and subalpine forests, making sure every bear in ear shot would know our presence. The idea of a bear translating human languages is tongue-in-cheek silliness, but it helped keep us on guard because no matter what language you speak, doing so loudly and frequently may help ward off a serious encounter with a very large mammal that has the potential to kill you.

A sign at the Tunnel Mountain Trailer Court campground. We took the park’s warning seriously enough to carry bear spray on all our hikes.

Of course, we carried bear spray and could access it within a second if needed. It was second nature to grab the canister each time we left the RV to hike around the forest adjacent to the campground and anytime we got in the truck to go somewhere. We never knew where we might go, so we came prepared. Fortunately, we never got close to testing our questionable bear encounter skills – nor did we see a moose or elk on those hikes. In fact, we didn’t see any large animals while hiking. That was no surprise given that encounters with alligators (or any other wildlife including snakes) are infrequent when we wander through the Everglades swamps for miles and it isn’t unusual for someone to say, “you’re lucky if you see one”.

People we met while visiting Jasper saw moose here at Moose Lake. We hiked twice to the lake, but no moose.

Despite the repellant effect of loud talking on the hiking trail, we did see animals in Banff and Jasper National Parks in a variety of other ways. For example, the dozens of elk hanging out near our campsites became so commonplace we mostly ignored them after a few days. These elk were cows and calves, some youngsters still dependent on mom. Among them were young bulls at least a year old because their antler spikes, which grow an inch per day showed noticeable growth during our 12 days.

A typical happy hour scene at Whistlers Campground.

One time, we watched a calf wander around despondently looking for mamma. The high-pitched cries were persistent in the baby’s attempt to get within earshot of mom. The sound of the young elk is like the one its mother makes – squeaky and full of effort, so contradictory to the very large mammal from which it emanates. The adult bull makes a high-pitched bugle sound as well, although more robust with a slightly deeper note and more alarming to the human ear.

14-point buck on the Icefields Parkway near Whistlers Campground.

Adult bull elks with 12 or 14-point antlers were seen along the road on a few occasions, and safely from our vehicle we could photograph them. Not yet rutting season, bulls were wandering alone, occasionally stopping to sharpen a point or two with a sign post or tree. We visited the parks when elk encounters are less frequent – males not yet in rut, and dependent calves becoming less and less dependent on mom. Nevertheless, we gave the very large animals a wide berth (the park recommends 30 meters).

On Maligne Lake Road, a 14-pt buck allowed me to photograph its profile. I was in the truck with a 400mm lens and this photo is seriously cropped, so yes I was more than a few feet away from him!

Then there were the mountain goats that appeared out of nowhere on a steep mountain grade while we stood at the Goats and Glaciers Overlook alongside the Icefield Parkway. The two nannies and two kids wandered around for several minutes, long enough for us photograph them with the glaciered mountains and Athabasca River in the background.

Photo credit goes to our friend Spencer Saints who was smart enough to have brought a big lens to capture this nanny and her kid from the Goats and Glaciers Lookout.
Meanwhile, I used my iPhone.

On other days, we drove Maligne Lake Road, a popular corridor for roadside wildlife. Traffic jams are not uncommon along this highway. It was there one early morning before the traffic when we spotted a moose slowly crossing the road.

Photo credit goes to Lorraine Saints who was a passenger in the front seat and was able to capture this lone moose before it wandered off into the brush.

And then there were the fleeting moments we saw a black bear from our vehicle. But no grizzly – not even ‘The Boss’ that had been seen (and photographed) several times earlier in the year near one of the campgrounds.

The closest we got to a black bear was in downtown Jasper.
The closest we got to a grizzly bear was at the Three Bears Brewery in Banff.
That is until the last day in Jasper when I drove to town to fill up the fuel tank and came across a female with her cub along side the road. This is the cub that wandered out on to the road while mom wandered the opposite direction into the forest.
Finally, the cub ran back toward mom. The best shot I could get was this one with the cub on the left running after mom on the right.

Aside from the large mammals, there were the small ones, the most exotic of which was the pica (pronounced ‘peeka’), foreign to Florida. The American pica looks like a cross between a mouse and a rabbit and is about the size of a hamster. Picas live in rock piles and can be seen scurrying to find grasses and wildflowers to chew on.

The pica looks like a mouse, but it has no tail! We were hiking to Angel Glacier among the rocks when I photographed this one.
I came back to Goats and Glaciers Lookout with my big lens hoping to capture the mountain goats. No luck there, but did photograph this chipmunk eating a juniper berry.
A loon on Maligne Lake.

Every time we saw a large animal it was a special event that never got old (I still find joy seeing an alligator in the Everglades after having seen hundreds over the years). And here’s why – these animals define the wilderness and are surviving despite our encroachment. They adapt to less space, crossing highways, using hiking trails for traveling, wandering urban areas. Animals are opportunists when it comes to food – where there are people, there is food (such as campgrounds). Consequently, the national parks engage in a balancing act because we want to preserve the wilderness for these animals, but at the same time we want access to them – the crown jewels of Banff and Jasper.

There is one other crown jewel that people come to Banff or Jasper to see – the Northern Lights. I have to share this as I am so proud of our friend Spencer Saints for getting outside late at night (while I was sound asleep) and having a good eye to see the lights, and take photographs! This is from the Whistlers campground in Jasper.

While you’re at it, check out Lorraine and Spencer’s travel blog. Living fulltime in their RV since 2017, they’ve seen it all – or at least they are on an adventure to see it all! And be sure to check out our previous blogs about our time in Banff and Jasper National Parks if you missed them:

Jul 22, 2023 – Canada’s Emerald City

As cliché as it sounds, driving into Banff National Park’s Tunnel Mountain Trailer Court reminded me of Dorothy walking out of the woods and into the Land of Oz –…

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