Sep 7, 2022 – The Third Coast

Our route from the Lake Huron side to the Lake Michigan side where we stayed one week at Lake Leelanau RV Park, and then four nights at Steamboat Park Campground.
Our campsite at Lake Leelanau RV Park.
Our campsite at Steamboat Park on the Grand River near Grand Rapids, a different look from Leelanau Peninsula.
You know you’re in Michigan…

After 10 days spent on Lake Huron near one of world’s largest cement plant and limestone quarry, going west to the Lake Michigan side was like traveling to another world. Parked on Lake Leelanau on Leelanau Peninsula between Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan, we were surrounded by a hilly patchwork of orchards and vineyards and small lakeshore towns with yacht-filled marinas as large as the town itself.

The Leelanau Conservancy has acquired several pieces of land for public access, including this one. The group works with private owners using conservation easement, a legal agreement to keep natural areas undeveloped. The owner chooses to make the land public or not.
After arriving at our campsite, I began to explore Leelanau Peninsula thanks to the Conservancy. A walk in the woods topped the day as the sun began to set over Lake Michigan. You can’t see the lake from here, but just beyond those trees is a steep embankment toward the shoreline.
Just north of Traverse City, Leelanau Peninsula is wine country as you can see from the red points on the map – each indicating a winery. We were parked on the north end of Lake Leelanau and could easily tour all the wineries within a radius of 15 miles.
At one of the many wineries we visited in the peninsula. This area has an ideal climate and soil for growing fruit. In fact, Traverse City is known as the Cherry Capital of the World.

Michigan is full of beautiful places and almost entirely, they are associated with a Great Lake. While growing up in Gaylord Michigan, Lake Michigan was to me largely inaccessible. A scenic drive along its northern shorelines offers very few places to park the car and walk to the water. Mostly, private property separates the road from the lake, making the Great Lake nothing more than a distant glitter of blue flashing between the trees and houses as you drive through a tunnel of trees which contributes the ‘scenic’ part of the drive.

Point Betsie Lighthouse, one of 102 on Lake Michigan.
The G. Marsten Dame Marina, a public boating facility in Northport, Leelanau Peninsula.
We enjoyed the little coastal town Northport on the eastern side of the peninsula for its Bohemian vibe. I learned that my sister and her friends visited a commune there when she was living in Traverse City in the 70s.

The Lake Michigan side of the state is impressively beautiful. Relating to this is that Lake Michigan’s shoreline contains the largest freshwater sand dunes on the planet. The sand gives the clear turquoise water an iridescence. The coastal sand forests are unique and provide an ecosystem for a variety of animals and plants. But where there is unique beauty, there are buyers. The picturesque Glen Lake located a short distance from Lake Michigan is the perfect example of this. In the 1920s, an exclusive resort was planned to overlook the scenic coastal lake. It was to include an 18-hole golf course, an airstrip, tennis courts, bridle paths, polo field, a ski jump and toboggan run, and more than 100 estates – all ‘ideally restricted’.

A view of Glen Lake from Alligator Point where the exclusive resort was to be built. Now, the land is within Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore for all to enjoy.
A pastoral view of both Lake Michigan and Glen Lake, from the Sleeping Bear Dunes scenic drive. Off in the distance is a replica of the farm once owned by D.H. Day, the developer of what was to be the exclusive resort.

Fortunately, the stock market crashed and investors pulled their money. A decade or so later, residents began to imagine another use for the land. In 1970, Congress established the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore with the intention of preserving Michigan’s outstanding natural features. Eventually, more of Michigan’s dunes became protected with the passage of the Sand Dune Protection and Management Act in 1976. Today, the state of Michigan along the entire expanse of Lake Michigan has several designated state parks where the dunes and water can be accessed by the public.

A view of Lake Michigan from Empire Bluff.

One morning, I hiked to Empire Bluff, located within Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore – a mere .75 miles but a steady incline all the way. Soon, I was rewarded for the effort as I stood alone on top of the bluff gazing over Lake Michigan. Between me and the shoreline was a 450-foot nearly vertical drop. The Great Lake was breathtaking in the silence of the sandy ecosystem. I had a 180-degree view of Lake Michigan’s sparkling clear blue water gently disturbed by a slight breeze – to the left and to the right as far as my eyes could see were magnificent dunes and nothing else. I wandered around the sand and interrupted my views of the water to examine the wildflowers and grasses – a brilliant show of resilience in a stark environment. Such are the dunes, a wilderness of sand created by wind. Nature’s brilliance!

As I stood on the bluff looking at the endless horizon of Lake Michigan, I felt so lucky to be in an amazingly beautiful and unique place, like I have in so many others places Vivian and I have traveled to. Enjoy these photos from our time on ‘The Third Coast”.

Another Lake Michigan coastal town we enjoyed was Holland, well known for its spring tulip festival.
Frank Baum, author of the Wizard of Oz had a summer home in Holland, which no longer exists. But the town plays it up well in this city park where you can find Oz characters throughout.
Like this well known one.
The Holland farmers’ market was one of the best we had been too.

And if you enjoy this blog, please check out some of these others about Michigan, one of our favorite states to explore – and we’ve done a lot of exploring there!

Sep 19, 2018 – We’re not in the tropics anymore

Aug 4, 2021 – The lake they call Gitch Gumee

Aug 28, 2022 – The Other Side of Michigan

Aug 28, 2022 – The Other Side of Michigan

From the Upper Peninsula, we crossed the Mackinac Bridge while towing the fifth wheel for the second time in our travels. This time we drove to the “other side” of Michigan, the Lake Huron side. Ten days later, we drove west to the Lake Michigan side. The red arrow indicates our campground near Alpena.

Imagine traveling the United States in an RV going places you’ve always wanted to see. Think about those places for a minute – do they include Wamego, Kansas or Natchitoches, Louisiana? What about Alpena, Michigan? None of these on your list? Too bad because your travel itinerary may be lacking in a genuine American tour.

A satellite view of Alpena clearly shows one of the world’s largest cement plants at the far right of the image, almost as large as the city itself. Red circle indicates our campground.

Wamego, Kansas is home to the Oz Museum, and Natchitoches contains the oldest cemetery in the Louisiana Purchase and is the filming location for Steel Magnolias. This brings us to Alpena, Michigan – home to one of North America’s largest cement plants and near the world’s largest limestone quarry. I’ve never been to Alpena, located on the shores of Lake Huron despite spending the first 23 years of my life less than 90 miles away from it. The small city was not a popular destination for reasons I vaguely remember including a strange name ‘Abitibi’ sardonically mentioned in reference to the foul smells and blue collar drudgery that described the Lake Huron side of Michigan.

A panoramic view of the world’s largest limestone quarry, north of Alpena and next to the smaller town, Rogers City. This may be a pano view, but it includes less than half of the entire quarry. Note Lake Huron on the horizon.

Abitibi is a Canadian pulp and paper company that, in 1957 erected a plant in Alpena on the banks of Lake Huron’s Thunder Bay where the Thunder Bay River runs into the third largest freshwater lake on the planet. Abitibi became an important part of Alpena’s economy-but it was also once a Superfund site and still has its issues. Today, it is home of DPI (Decorative Panels International), which in recent years has received three smell violations.

At the Besser Museum, you can learn about the making of cement blocks and the role Alpena plays in the cement industry.

Way back in time, the lumber industry dominated Northern Michigan. As a renewable source, trees take time to grow and eventually, the timber industry dwindled. Lumber barons turned to other natural resources including limestone. One of those barons, Herman Besser invested in Alpena Portland Cement in 1899 to create machinery to make cement blocks. In time, the company’s innovations made it an international leader in the cement industry, contributing to Alpena’s nickname ‘Cement City’.

Displayed at the Besser Museum is the ‘Alpena Flyer’, produced by the Alpena Motor Car Company, circa 1910-12.

Other industries came and went, including the Alpena Garment Factory and the Alpena Motor Car Company, one of the few automobile companies in northern Michigan that attempted (and failed) to compete with Detroit’s reign over the industry. Fletcher Paper Mill popped up in 1886 on the shores of Thunder Bay not far from Alpena Portland Cement and cranked out manila paper until it closed its doors in 2000. Several other businesses relating to lumber or cement came and went as well.

On Lake Huron, Alpena was once an important commercial fishing location. Now, it has become a popular destination for recreational fishermen, divers and paddlers.

On one side of the empty Fletcher Paper mill is The Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center and on the other side a marine diving business. It is here where the word ‘Maritime’ reminded us of why we visited Alpena. The limestone and lumber industries remain central to the area and difficult to ignore, but we came here to discover another piece of Americana that pops up frequently in our travels – a community that strives to attract visitors.

Downtown Alpena with the draw bridge opened to allow boat traffic on the Thunder Bay River.
Michigan’s shape is a popular motif for Michigan artists, as seen here at the Thunder Bay Arts Gallery in downtown Alpena.

As far as places to visit in Michigan, Alpena is not on the short list. But there are plenty of reasons to, at least from mine and Vivian’s perspective. That is because we seek out natural areas especially those that include water, art & architecture, and anything with historical meaning. So, we saw potential in Alpena.

One sure way to attract visitors is a winery or brewery, both of which can be found in Alpena.
We enjoyed wandering through this well stocked antique shop called ‘Traveling Ladders’ in the downtown area.

We’ve learned from our travels that many communities, small and large have at least one named natural area adjacent to its populated districts. Some of these plots of land are nature preserves, some are wildlife sanctuaries, and some are simply called ‘park’. Regardless, they are the result of some person or person’s generous contribution toward local conservation and improvement of their community’s quality of life.

Within Alpena is a well maintained Wildlife Sanctuary. Here you can see Island Park and the covered bridge that leads to it.
While we did not see spring flowers in Michigan, there were plenty of wildflowers to go around during those waning summer days.

Some nature preserves are just that – a piece of natural land set aside for nature itself, but most of the time, these are public spaces where residents and visitors may enjoy nature. They become sanctuaries for indigenous wildlife as well as non-wild humans. We seek these places out and although sometimes underwhelmed, especially given the national and state parks available to us, we always find joy and appreciate the great effort and generosity from members of a community for the sake of the community itself.

We parked at Camper’s Cove RV Park & Canoe Livery on Thunder Bay River. Our Reflection fifth wheel reflects on the fishing pond located in the park.

We enjoyed Alpena with its charming downtown full of historic landmarks and where we discovered an art gallery of local artists, we hiked Island Park that is within the Alpena Wildlife Sanctuary, shopped at a wonderful farmers’ market on the shores of Lake Huron, learned local history at the Besser Historical Museum and learned some more at The Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center. Alpena is located on Thunder Bay which was designated a National Marine Sanctuary in 2000, one of 15 in the United States and the first in the great lakes. The purpose of the 4300-acre sanctuary is to protect 100 shipwrecks in Lake Huron off the Michigan coast. As a result, Alpena has become a popular shipwreck diving and kayaking location.

The Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center contains a shipwreck and shipwreck preservation museum free to the public. We learned so much about the various vessels that went down in Lake Huron.
Inside the shipwreck museum, you can board the Western Hope of Alpena that simulates a shipwreck in the making.
The museum is also an active preservation laboratory.
A shipwreck map of the National Marine Sanctuary.
Thunder Bay was the nickname given by sailors because of its rocky shoals.

Not bad Alpena. Glad we had some quality time to get to know you and the surrounding areas along Lake Huron. You don’t have the bucolic wine country or the grand dunes that attracts tourists to the Lake Michigan’s side of the state, but you have plenty.

Behold, lower peninsula’s largest waterfall, Ocqueoc Falls, about 45 miles north of Alpena.
Lighthouses are plenty along the shores of Lake Huron, including Presque Island Lighthouse that offers this view.
I had fun playing with my iphone’s pano mode to get shots of the lighthouse spiral staircase.
At the lighthouse museum, you can learn about the life and work of a lighthouse keeper.
I climbed up the new Presque Isle lighthouse, but this is the original lighthouse, no longer in use.
However, rumor has it the old lighthouse is haunted as the light comes on by itself on occasion.
Our Michigan friends descended on the campground after Labor Day weekend. The cold temperatures added a Michigan touch to the lively campfire visits that made the final two days in Alpena the encore of our visit.